The MOTHER of all acceptance speeches :-) ASP 2006 Winner....
Thanks to the ASP for this presiguous award. It's an honour to accept it and I'm going to really focus on retaining this award next year.Let me first talk about the day - "BIG TUESDAY". I took a long lunch in order to catch this epic swell. It was another classic session. Those that weren't there should have been. Those who didn't believe me should have more faith. The legendary wave of 'Jacobs' came to life last week to serve up a feast of wave action for locals surfers in a certain corner of England. I woke up about 6 A.M. and I was really calm and I felt like it was really going to happen. I was almost picturing it in my head. I looked at the conditions trying to figure out where to surf. I felt really calm. I felt really focused deep inside but on the outside really calm. I was confused though. I couldn't decide which type of wax to use or which colour wetsuit to wear.While earlier on conditions were difficult due to an intense current created by increasing swell and the planet Uranus orbiting Neptune, by lunchtime the surfers were revelling in incredible one metre (three feet) plus reeling swell lines and high performance wave riding was the norm.Much to the appreciation of the huge crowd perched up on the cliff next to the famous wave, the largest set of the day loomed on the horizon and local sufer 'Fly' was on it carving some huge top to bottom gouges. Also taking advantage of the conditions, was 'Ant', another local heavweight standout. One of his turns in particular defied gravity as he bashed the lip then freefell three feet down the face to land successfully. The ASP are now considering using this spot to host one of their events next year and it is proposed that the format be similar to Rip Curl's secret Mexico 'Search' event. In a recent interview, Kelly Slater said "yeah, that wave looks SICK - I'd like to surf it one day." Bring it on!!! My next task is to surf more local unchartered territories that I have been watching with a keen eye for about nine years. Today, in the bay at E-Mouth, right opposite the Octagon, I saw something special - a nice peeling left running for about 500 metres into the estuary, almost like a reverse of the Superbank in Oz or Mundaka. This year it looks longer, thicker and better than ever. It's got to be surfable, I'm sure it is. I will surf it!This Friday (maybe just maybe) I predict positive things and I will again hope to be able to sneak off for a lunchtime surf at 'Jacobs' or maybe 'S-Bay' or 'Otters'. I'm sure they'll all be firing - I'll be spoilt for choice.With my OS map wedged firmly in my board bag, the search for epic waves along this wave filled coastline continues......
