Marine Drive: SOLID !!!!

13 second period, long range organised groundswell, light offshores and SOLID waves...!

I surfed for 2 hrs...... the paddle-out was sketchy and the sets were BIG, POWERFUL, and HOLLOW. I paddled for about 6 waves before deciding that I had to 110% go-for-it to get into one of the beasts!! :-) Caught a big overhead right that walled up and shot me 40mph down the line - aaaaaaaaaargggggghhhhh - great ride until the end section pinched shut and EXPLODED. "No pain no gain" I guess. :-)