After an easter weekend that served up nothing but 'ankle-slappers' - 7 days later this GREAT long-range, clean swell arrived .......... oh yeah ! Consistant 3ft with bigger sets - some well overhead. Happy Dayz.
The banks at Marine Drive were perfect - producing some great long lefts like this one. The rips were strong but all the paddling to stay in position was well worth it to score some rides like this. :-)
Been surfing for 25 years and Love It. "Surfing's more than just a sport - it's a way of life" - yep, that's some cheesy quote I once read in a surf mag but it's also pretty true. I watch films like Castaway and think - screw making a raft out of that big bit of plastic ... hasn't he spotted the perfect waves breaking just offshore. Shape a 6'5 out of the bloody thing and have some fun!! :-)
PET HATES:
People who surf because it's "COOL DUDE" etc etc -"All the gear & No idea". Yes they've got all the DVD's, Mags, Clothes, know all the Pro's names but get them in the water in anything over 2ft slop and it all becomes clear :-)