Another really fun day at Puts - surfing with John Romanoski. 13 second swell period, nice and clean and a good warm up session for Cote de Basque next week (similar waves) :-)
posted by Hellman at 7:36 PM
0 comments
Been surfing for 25 years and Love It. "Surfing's more than just a sport - it's a way of life" - yep, that's some cheesy quote I once read in a surf mag but it's also pretty true. I watch films like Castaway and think - screw making a raft out of that big bit of plastic ... hasn't he spotted the perfect waves breaking just offshore. Shape a 6'5 out of the bloody thing and have some fun!! :-) PET HATES: People who surf because it's "COOL DUDE" etc etc -"All the gear & No idea". Yes they've got all the DVD's, Mags, Clothes, know all the Pro's names but get them in the water in anything over 2ft slop and it all becomes clear :-)
