Well it took long enough but on the 10th and 11th of October it finally happened - a whole weekend of hot, sunny, 'summeresque' weather :-) .... and to top it off the surf was sweet-as-a-nut. Surfed Puts on the Sunday (pic) with a lovely 4ft swell and light offshores. If only every day was like this - can but dream.
posted by Hellman at 9:02 PM
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Been surfing for 25 years and Love It. "Surfing's more than just a sport - it's a way of life" - yep, that's some cheesy quote I once read in a surf mag but it's also pretty true. I watch films like Castaway and think - screw making a raft out of that big bit of plastic ... hasn't he spotted the perfect waves breaking just offshore. Shape a 6'5 out of the bloody thing and have some fun!! :-) PET HATES: People who surf because it's "COOL DUDE" etc etc -"All the gear & No idea". Yes they've got all the DVD's, Mags, Clothes, know all the Pro's names but get them in the water in anything over 2ft slop and it all becomes clear :-)
