Sunday 15th March 2009 (Putsborough) - with big spring tides and high tide at 9am it was a case of getting up bright 'n early to score excellent 2-3ft plus and super-glassy conditions. We surfed for 2hrs in warm, sunny conditions and great waves before chomping down a very well earned Puts cafe 'all day breakfast'. A great surf..........
posted by Hellman at 8:32 PM
Been surfing for 25 years and Love It. "Surfing's more than just a sport - it's a way of life" - yep, that's some cheesy quote I once read in a surf mag but it's also pretty true. I watch films like Castaway and think - screw making a raft out of that big bit of plastic ... hasn't he spotted the perfect waves breaking just offshore. Shape a 6'5 out of the bloody thing and have some fun!! :-) PET HATES: People who surf because it's "COOL DUDE" etc etc -"All the gear & No idea". Yes they've got all the DVD's, Mags, Clothes, know all the Pro's names but get them in the water in anything over 2ft slop and it all becomes clear :-)
1 Comments:
meanwhile I was mixing with the over 95's! Help.....!!!
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