Coldwater bliss at Marine Drive...... Dec 12th 2009
With the last 3wks plus consisting of torrential rain, wind, cold, grey weather, heavy onshore waves, and loooooooong days at the office I was REALLY in need of a decent surf. A cold, crisp, but sunny day with quality 3ft clean / glassy lined-up surf at Marine Drive. Roz and I surfed a good 2 hrs plus with hardly anyone out despite the really good conditions.
On one of the bigger right hand sets of the day I managed to pull off a 'sweeeeeeet as' carving bottom turn up into the lip, followed by a pretty full floater, an air-drop re-entry and continued the ride down the line!!!! Honest ;0) I admit that ending up right up on top of the lip was a bit of a fluke due to an over-cooked bottom turn but the floater, re-entry, and long ride down the line was 100% deliberate. Oh yes!!!! ......... 20 years in the water and finally a heat winning score! Ha Ha.
OK .... it's not the walk over the dunes in "Endless Summer" but days like this are still GREAT !
On one of the bigger right hand sets of the day I managed to pull off a 'sweeeeeeet as' carving bottom turn up into the lip, followed by a pretty full floater, an air-drop re-entry and continued the ride down the line!!!! Honest ;0) I admit that ending up right up on top of the lip was a bit of a fluke due to an over-cooked bottom turn but the floater, re-entry, and long ride down the line was 100% deliberate. Oh yes!!!! ......... 20 years in the water and finally a heat winning score! Ha Ha.
OK .... it's not the walk over the dunes in "Endless Summer" but days like this are still GREAT !
posted by Hellman at 5:20 PM
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