At last ----- PUMPING SURF ! :0) ------- Sunday 26 June 2011
This was well worth the wait ............ perfect groundswell and solid surf with offshore winds.
Surfed trusty P-Land with Mark and scored some 'great waves' .......including one of my most memorable waves in a long time - a BIG walled-up left set wave that came through about and hour and a half into the session. Most people saw it coming and started paddling to the horizon to get out back and over it.......I thought - "this is to good to let it go by!!!" and just positioned myself to take it on, paddled hard, and caught it just right, bottom turned round the initial section onto a BIG, clean face and rode it all the way to the shore. Great wave and worth all the effort. HAPPY DAYS ;-)
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Surfed trusty P-Land with Mark and scored some 'great waves' .......including one of my most memorable waves in a long time - a BIG walled-up left set wave that came through about and hour and a half into the session. Most people saw it coming and started paddling to the horizon to get out back and over it.......I thought - "this is to good to let it go by!!!" and just positioned myself to take it on, paddled hard, and caught it just right, bottom turned round the initial section onto a BIG, clean face and rode it all the way to the shore. Great wave and worth all the effort. HAPPY DAYS ;-)
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posted by Hellman at 7:53 PM
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