SALVATION - Woolacombe / Marine Drive !

Like a fat kid in a room full of pies I have just utterly GORGED myself !!!!!! Oh my god that was good.
I just can't explain the feeling but if you are reading this and you are a surfer - you will know exactly what I mean.

Saunton was looking beautifully lined up. Downend Point was working.

I fancied some space to endulge myself so headed over to Marine Drive / Woolocombe.

This pictures say it all ....................BLISS!

The second pic shows a mental bank at Marine Drive - a pulse of large headhigh plus swell pushed through at about 12:30 for 45 minutes and I after so long having not surfed in decent solid surf I had to focus. It was solid, strong offshore, pretty hollow, with a strong cross shore current. There was no way I was going to bottle it - I waited for my 'set' and caught a beautiful headhigh right - solid bottom turn and carve - surfed it all the way down the beach. Job done ............. heart pumping, adrenaline flowing, and "this is what it is all about" ........YES ! :0)

Saturday 26th May 2012 ..........F*CK, SH*T, B*LLOCKS, and C*NT

Up at 4:00am and on the road chasing the back of the swell........heading to Watergate Bay...........this is it........it's finally going to happen - surf ! ............ images in my mind of perfect 3ft surf .......is a hot sunny day ...........this is going to be GREAT.

(0.5 ft - tiny)

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!

APRIL - MID MAY ............... The worst FLAT SPELL in living history!

Give me strength !!
It'll pick up soon....
Its raining, raining, raining , and ....... raining (and flat)
Developing webbed feet.
What has happened to the sea - its SOOOOO flat :-(
OK - now this is getting ridiculous....
Im starting to go mad now ...... mind surfing.
If this carries on much longer i'm going to have to fly somewhere with waves ....
Cold Turkey !!! - climbing the walls (help me!)
I can't take any more.

Wednesday 25th April ............... Oh my god - there is swell - good swell !

Mark is back the weekend - go now (?) or wait for him (?)

Will the swell hold ....... oh god, the cams look epic. I need a 'fix' ......

Mark, can't take a day off .....SH*T ! ....... hmmm, Saturday (?)

Watch this space - desparate now!

Widemouth - 8 April 2012

Well, having just come back from Borneo - this was not ideal ! Freezing cold, and pretty much crapped out wind swell. Urrghhhh.