Check this place out! Mavericks wasn't breaking and one of the local surfers said that Barny's was "mellow today" !!! ..... yeah sure, if you call double overhead, shark infested, reef breaks mellow! :-) 
posted by Hellman at 6:33 PM
Been surfing for 25 years and Love It. "Surfing's more than just a sport - it's a way of life" - yep, that's some cheesy quote I once read in a surf mag but it's also pretty true. I watch films like Castaway and think - screw making a raft out of that big bit of plastic ... hasn't he spotted the perfect waves breaking just offshore. Shape a 6'5 out of the bloody thing and have some fun!! :-) PET HATES: People who surf because it's "COOL DUDE" etc etc -"All the gear & No idea". Yes they've got all the DVD's, Mags, Clothes, know all the Pro's names but get them in the water in anything over 2ft slop and it all becomes clear :-)
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