The wave here was just so damn perfect I thought i'd died and gone to heaven. Once you were on it it walled up and just reeled down the line accross the shallow cobblestone reef. Peeeeeeerfect. 
posted by Hellman at 8:25 PM
Been surfing for 25 years and Love It. "Surfing's more than just a sport - it's a way of life" - yep, that's some cheesy quote I once read in a surf mag but it's also pretty true. I watch films like Castaway and think - screw making a raft out of that big bit of plastic ... hasn't he spotted the perfect waves breaking just offshore. Shape a 6'5 out of the bloody thing and have some fun!! :-) PET HATES: People who surf because it's "COOL DUDE" etc etc -"All the gear & No idea". Yes they've got all the DVD's, Mags, Clothes, know all the Pro's names but get them in the water in anything over 2ft slop and it all becomes clear :-)
0 Comments:
Post a Comment
<< Home