SALVATION - Woolacombe / Marine Drive !

Like a fat kid in a room full of pies I have just utterly GORGED myself !!!!!! Oh my god that was good.
I just can't explain the feeling but if you are reading this and you are a surfer - you will know exactly what I mean.

Saunton was looking beautifully lined up. Downend Point was working.

I fancied some space to endulge myself so headed over to Marine Drive / Woolocombe.

This pictures say it all ....................BLISS!

The second pic shows a mental bank at Marine Drive - a pulse of large headhigh plus swell pushed through at about 12:30 for 45 minutes and I after so long having not surfed in decent solid surf I had to focus. It was solid, strong offshore, pretty hollow, with a strong cross shore current. There was no way I was going to bottle it - I waited for my 'set' and caught a beautiful headhigh right - solid bottom turn and carve - surfed it all the way down the beach. Job done ............. heart pumping, adrenaline flowing, and "this is what it is all about" ........YES ! :0)