March 2006 - The reefs around Margaret River were pumping during our first two days in MR. 8ft plus with huge sets - only 12-15 hardcore locals out. Checked out Yals, Huzzas, North Point but all maxed out and looking like certain death :-) ..... had to wait a couple of days for my first paddle out in WA (at GRUNTERS REEF) - nothing like rock and sharks to focus the mind! :-) 
posted by Hellman at 8:57 AM
Been surfing for 25 years and Love It. "Surfing's more than just a sport - it's a way of life" - yep, that's some cheesy quote I once read in a surf mag but it's also pretty true. I watch films like Castaway and think - screw making a raft out of that big bit of plastic ... hasn't he spotted the perfect waves breaking just offshore. Shape a 6'5 out of the bloody thing and have some fun!! :-) PET HATES: People who surf because it's "COOL DUDE" etc etc -"All the gear & No idea". Yes they've got all the DVD's, Mags, Clothes, know all the Pro's names but get them in the water in anything over 2ft slop and it all becomes clear :-)
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