Thursday, April 09, 2009

El Conquistador (Canaries Surf Trip 2009)

This spot was the first break that we surfed on the trip. At mid tide there is plenty of water over the reef but there is also a big rock right in the middle of the line up which is partly submerged. I got caught inside and washed in over the reef on a set and came up in the white water thinking - "ok, no problem - I think I can get to shore ok but where the hell is that rock!?!" ..... as the swell shifted back over the reef and i found out where the rock was......... I was ON IT !! Another wave was on it's way through the line-up and I tried to paddle away from it and also kit off of it but the current around the rock had me well and truely stuck in place! As the wave approached all I could do was 'Brace!' and hope for the best (ie. that I didnt get slammed against the sharp volcanic rock and break both my board and my limbs!). Somehow the wave picked me up and launched me about 10 feet right over the top of the rock and into deeper water! So lucky !!!! :-)

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